DIY Paving

DIY Paving

August 20, 2017 | No Comments

Packaged Products – How To: Paving the Way

You Will Need:
• 2 screed rails
• screed board
• road base
• string line & pegs
• spirit level
• wheelbarrow
• spade
• coarse/medium river sand
• Pave-Lok jointing materials
• compacting equipment
• rotating diamond tip saw blade
• broom
• rake

Pave-Lok

Check these out HERE and HERE
Concrete Mix

Check these out HERE and HERE and HERE

WARNING! This product (Pave-Lok) has been designed for use by commercial paving contractors. Please read Pave-Lok instructions before using or seek further information from Boral Cement on 1800 570 673.
Excavate the area to be paved to a minimum depth of a paver plus approximately 50mm for bedding sand . Be sure to allow a fall for drainage or a road base if soil is soft. The base must be firm. Hollow and low areas must be filled – compacted by tamping or rolling.

Set all string lines first to establish a level starting point, then adjust for drainage falls as shown at left. Slope paving away from house or building and allow for a final paving surface to be below any damp-proof course.
Place bedding sand and spread evenly over area to be paved to a depth of 50mm, allowing 5-10mm for settlement on application. Spread with a rake. Set string lines to desired levels and set screed rails accordingly. Using a screed board, spread the bedding sand to required levels.
Select paver laying pattern. (Herringbone is strongly recommended for driveways.)

Determine the average width of the pavers by placing 20 pavers tightly side by side and measure their overall width. Divide this figure by 20. Add 3mm to this average paver width (to allow for joints). Space out a grid of string lines based on this final dimension (Ave. width + 3mm) for, say, 10 paver intervals.

Lay pavers in desired pattern. Always allow a 2-3mm gap between pavers. Re-position the string lines to form the same grid as you progress. Do not allow pavers to touch, as this may lead to chipping in use.
Edge restraints are required to prevent movement of the edges and restrain the pavers and sand. A concrete edge, a paver set on edge or a timber boundary is ideal and can be constructed at a time to suit – to begin with, during, or as the last stage of placing the pavers. Remember the 3mm gap – pavers must not touch. Edge restraints should be approximately 10mm below uncompacted pavers to allow for compaction settlement.
When the pavers are in place and edge restraints secure, sweep Pave-Lok (dry) over the dry completed area until the joints are completely filled.

For small jobs, pavers may be compacted using a rubber mallet and a piece of timber. For larger jobs use two or three passes of a vibrating plate compactor to ensure compaction of tight joints. A rubber roller attachment or carpet can be used under the plate to protect the pavers from damage. Paving should compact about 10mm. The joints should then be topped up by sweeping Pave-Lok over the area prior to a final compaction consisting of two more passings of the plate vibrator.

Before applying an even spray of clean water over the Pavement, you must ensure that all excess Pave-Lok is swept clean from the surface of the pavers to avoid Pave-Lok adhering to the surface.

Thorough gradual soaking of the Pave-Lok area should be completed to allow water to penetrate through the jointing material.

Pave-Lok, once dried, will remain flexible and allow slight movement of pavers without cracking. Your paved area will be ready for use after a minimum of 24hrs setting time.

Thanks Boral for your fantastic information! Boral also has a download brochure HERE

 

Kristy Krunchy Schultz

 

 

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